I often hear paper artists discussing ATCs (artist trading cards), and mentioning that they got their start a little over 10 years ago. While the current ATC craze did start about 10 years ago as a means for artists all over the world to share their work, the history of the ATC is much older.
Almost 500 years ago, artists began trading "cards" as a way to showcase their techniques, to advertise, or to use as a calling card or a business card. In the 19th Century, the popularity of ATCs grew tremendously when the Impressionists traded (and sometimes sold) ATCs in exchange for art supplies or rent.
In the beginning, the cards didn't have a standard size, although they were supposed to be smaller than what is today a standard postcard. The front of the card contained original art, and the back contained information about the artist - an advertisement or resume of sorts - and the artist's signature.
The ATCs we know today have a standard size - 2.5 X 3.5 inches - which is the same size as sports trading cards. The base material is usually cardstock, but artists will also use wood, fabric (stiffened), clay, metal, acrylic, plastic, etc. Artists may use any media (paper, watercolors, stamps, digital art, oils, textiles, pencils, etc) on the front of the card. The back of the card should contain the artist's signature and date. If the card is from a series, the artist usually notes that, too.
The only "rules" of the current ATC movement regard the size of the cards (as noted above), and the fact that the cards are not to be sold, only traded. However, there are artists who do sell their cards (If you search ebay, you'll find a bunch listed!) and point out that early ATC artists would sometimes sell their cards.
Tuesday, April 10, 2007
Thursday, April 5, 2007
Inks, Part Dos -
With proper care, both stamps and pads can last a long time.
Cleaning Ink from Rubber Stamps
Whenever you use your stamps, you should clean them. Doing so will not only prevent contaminating a future project with an old ink color, but also prolong the life of your stamps.If you are using a stamp repeatedly during one project, you don't need to clean it off between stampings unless you are changing ink colors. Once you have finished using a stamp, however, clean it immediately. Simply stamp off on scrap paper and then wipe the stamp with a baby wipe or damp terry or paper towel.
To get ink out of the crevices of detailed stamps, you can use a cleaning pad or old toothbrush. If you are using permanent, solvent or pigment (especially watermark) inks, you may need to use commercial stamp cleaners to completely remove ink from the stamp. Watermark and glue inks in particular can ruin the rubber if allowed to dry on the stamp.
Please note that there is a difference between a stained stamp and a dirty stamp. Some inks, particularly those that are permanent, can stain rubber. In addition, certain colors (purples, in particular) will stain rubber stamps. Stained rubber really will not affect future stamping projects. However, if you let ink dry on a stamp and then use it, the old ink color can bleed onto both the new ink pad and new project.
One final note regarding commercial stamp cleaners: Using commercial cleaners can actually help condition a stamp's rubber surface. Using bleach or an alcohol-based cleaner on the rubber can ruin it.
Caring for ink pads
There are a few things you need to keep in mind if you want your ink pads to last a long time. First, when you are not using the pad, keep the lid tightly closed. Some pads, like Staz-on and MicaMagic, have interior plastic liners under the lids. Make sure you replace the liner, also, as it is there to keep those pads fresh.
When an ink pad starts to dry out, or when you notice your image is not as crisp as it should be, reink the pad. Every ink manufacturer makes reinkers for their inks. Should you not have the reinker, you can use Perfect Ink Refresher (Ranger), which will give you about 15-20% more usage from the pad. Do not use water! Please note that PIR will not work on solvent-based inks due to the chemical make-up of both products.
Store your ink pads on a flat surface. You do NOT need to store the pads upside down, nor do you have to keep them in the refrigerator. Neither practice will make a difference in the ink's stampability, nor will they really keep the ink closer to the surface.
At times, the adhesive holding the foam or felt pad to the plastic inkpad container deteriorates due to the chemical make-up of the ink itself. All you have to do to re-stick the pad to the plastic case is clean the plastic and cover with a think layer of tacky glue. Replace the pad and let the adhesive dry completely before using.
One final thought
As noted above, certain ink colors (especially purples and some blues) can stain your stamps. Many inks will also stain your hands. Should you not be able to get the ink off of your hands (or face), use shampoo if you don't have a good hand cleaner. Shampoo usually removes most ink stains from the skin easily.
Cleaning Ink from Rubber Stamps
Whenever you use your stamps, you should clean them. Doing so will not only prevent contaminating a future project with an old ink color, but also prolong the life of your stamps.If you are using a stamp repeatedly during one project, you don't need to clean it off between stampings unless you are changing ink colors. Once you have finished using a stamp, however, clean it immediately. Simply stamp off on scrap paper and then wipe the stamp with a baby wipe or damp terry or paper towel.
To get ink out of the crevices of detailed stamps, you can use a cleaning pad or old toothbrush. If you are using permanent, solvent or pigment (especially watermark) inks, you may need to use commercial stamp cleaners to completely remove ink from the stamp. Watermark and glue inks in particular can ruin the rubber if allowed to dry on the stamp.
Please note that there is a difference between a stained stamp and a dirty stamp. Some inks, particularly those that are permanent, can stain rubber. In addition, certain colors (purples, in particular) will stain rubber stamps. Stained rubber really will not affect future stamping projects. However, if you let ink dry on a stamp and then use it, the old ink color can bleed onto both the new ink pad and new project.
One final note regarding commercial stamp cleaners: Using commercial cleaners can actually help condition a stamp's rubber surface. Using bleach or an alcohol-based cleaner on the rubber can ruin it.
Caring for ink pads
There are a few things you need to keep in mind if you want your ink pads to last a long time. First, when you are not using the pad, keep the lid tightly closed. Some pads, like Staz-on and MicaMagic, have interior plastic liners under the lids. Make sure you replace the liner, also, as it is there to keep those pads fresh.
When an ink pad starts to dry out, or when you notice your image is not as crisp as it should be, reink the pad. Every ink manufacturer makes reinkers for their inks. Should you not have the reinker, you can use Perfect Ink Refresher (Ranger), which will give you about 15-20% more usage from the pad. Do not use water! Please note that PIR will not work on solvent-based inks due to the chemical make-up of both products.
Store your ink pads on a flat surface. You do NOT need to store the pads upside down, nor do you have to keep them in the refrigerator. Neither practice will make a difference in the ink's stampability, nor will they really keep the ink closer to the surface.
At times, the adhesive holding the foam or felt pad to the plastic inkpad container deteriorates due to the chemical make-up of the ink itself. All you have to do to re-stick the pad to the plastic case is clean the plastic and cover with a think layer of tacky glue. Replace the pad and let the adhesive dry completely before using.
One final thought
As noted above, certain ink colors (especially purples and some blues) can stain your stamps. Many inks will also stain your hands. Should you not be able to get the ink off of your hands (or face), use shampoo if you don't have a good hand cleaner. Shampoo usually removes most ink stains from the skin easily.
Inks, Part One
Inks. . .inks. . .inks. . . inks. . .inks!! There is nothing that confuses the new stamper - and many veteran stampers - as much as inks do. Not only are two basic types of ink, there are also many sub-types within those two categories. Making the topic even more confusing are the number of brands made by the many ink manufacturers. In this two-part series, we'll look at the basics of the "ink-dom." There are two basic types of ink used in art stamping today - dye and pigment inks. The majority of the inks manufactured today are acid-free, so they can be used in scrapbooking. Please note, however, that not all inks are archival (meaning they will not fade over time)!!
DYE INKS
Dye inks are either water- or alcohol-based inks. They are, therefore, good for use on any type of paper – coated or non-coated. They dry quickly, so they are not really suited to embossing.Dye inks are usually acid-free, although not all of them are archival. If you are going to use them in scrapbooking, you need to realize that, with time, they may fade if exposed to light for extended periods of time.In addition, if you are going to use watercolor markers and/or pencils to finish your stamping project, you need to make sure that you use permanent dye inks. When the permanent inks are dry, they do not run if you use watercolors or markers. Solvent-based dye inks are quick-drying and permanent on every surface, including non-porous surfaces such as glass, metal, plastic, acrylic, etc. These inks will stain your stamps, and they require a solvent- based cleaner to remove most of the ink from the stamp.
PIGMENT INKS
Pigment inks, while water-based, also include a glycerin-like binder that makes them a slow-drying ink, so they are ideal for embossing. Because of the binder, however, they are not suited for use on - and will not dry on - coated papers Pigment inks are archival and will not fade with time, so they are perfect for use in scrapbooking. And, because of the sponge-like pad, they are great to use for the “direct-to-paper” method.A number of improved pigment inks are faster-drying than the "older" brands because of their chemical make-up. Thus, some of these inks will dry on coated papers (glossy paper and translucent vellums) and some non-porous surfaces, especially if heat-set. And, because they dry quickly, if you want to use them when embossing, you need to apply the embossing powder quickly or it won't stick.In addition to regular pigment inks, there is a sub-set of pigment ink that that you can use on fabric, wood, shrink plastic because when they are heat-set, they become permanent.
CHALK INKS
Chalk inks give a flat, muted appearance to the stamped image, thus the "chalk" ink description. Visible on the stamp pad surface and in the reinkers is a white, "chalky" residue. Chalk inks combine the best qualities of both pigment and dye inks. Chalk inks have the opacity of pigment inks. You can stamp them on almost any color cardstock, and your image will be visible. Like pigment inks, they resist fading (even if air-dried) and are archival. Like dye inks, chalk inks stamp and blend well. They dry quickly on most surfaces, including coated papers. If heat-set, chalk inks are permanent and resist smearing.
You can emboss chalk inks. However, because they dry quickly, you need to apply the embossing powder quickly. Please remember, though, that embossing will ruin the chalky effect of the ink.
A WORD ABOUT THE PADS THEMSELVES
You'll notice that some ink pads are made of a foam, while others are made of felt. The foam pads hold more ink and tend to put more ink on the stamps, while the felt pads distribute the ink a little more evenly. For the most part, dye inks come with felt pads, while pigment inks come with foam pads. The most logical reason behind this is that the pigment inks are heavier because of the binder in them, and the foam allows better inking.
However, there are a few exceptions to this generalization. Ranger's Antiquities and Resist inks (both considered more pigment ink) both come on felt pads. Because of this, the images stamped with either of these inks are a little more crisp and clean than those of competing brands. On the flip side, these two do not work as well for embossing since the amount of ink distributed is less. Clearsnap, which manufactures Vivid, Fluid Chalk Inks, Colorbox, and others, puts all of its inks on foam pads. Because of this, some of the images stamped with their pads may not, at first stamping, be as crisp as those of other brands.
ONE LITTLE HINT
If you have trouble remembering which inks are pigment and which are dye, looking at the pad container itself can sometimes help. For the most part, pigment inks come in pads with CLEAR or TRANSLUCENT tops, while dye inks come with OPAQUE tops. Of course, there are always exceptions, so check out the description first if you are looking for a particular ink type.
RESIST INKS
As their name implies, the purpose of these inks is to resist something. When stamped on glossy or any other coated paper, the resist inks prevent dye inks from bonding to the paper over the stamped image. Most resist inks are clear, so when you stamp on the coated cardstock (usually white or off-white) with these inks and then either bray, sponge, stipple, etc. dye inks over the stamped image, the stamped image stays the paper color.In addition to being resist inks, these pads are have other uses. Versamark(Tsukineko) and Palette Watermark (Stewart Superior) inks are both a little "juicier" than the Ranger Resist/Perfect Medium pads, most likely due to the fact that they have foam pads while the Ranger pads are felt.
Because they put more ink on your stamps, Versamark and Palette also make great, clear embossing inks. While you can emboss with the Ranger pads, they don't work as well as the other two.
Versamark and Palette also work well as watermark pads on many papers. To achieve a watermark look, stamp with either ink on almost any uncoated cardstock and let the ink dry. You'll notice a tone-on-tone look where you stamped.
Finally, all three inks work great in binding chalks (dry chalks, not chalk inks), mica powders (Pearl Ex, Perfect Pearls, etc), etc, to coated papers. Simply stamp using one of the resist inks on coated paper and brush or sponge chalk or one of the powders over the top. The powder will stick to the stamped image.Please note that when you use any of these inks on your stamps, you need to clean the stamp IMMEDIATELY after use. And, we recommend using a good stamp cleaner to remove these inks. Failure to do so can ruin your stamp.
DYE INKS
Dye inks are either water- or alcohol-based inks. They are, therefore, good for use on any type of paper – coated or non-coated. They dry quickly, so they are not really suited to embossing.Dye inks are usually acid-free, although not all of them are archival. If you are going to use them in scrapbooking, you need to realize that, with time, they may fade if exposed to light for extended periods of time.In addition, if you are going to use watercolor markers and/or pencils to finish your stamping project, you need to make sure that you use permanent dye inks. When the permanent inks are dry, they do not run if you use watercolors or markers. Solvent-based dye inks are quick-drying and permanent on every surface, including non-porous surfaces such as glass, metal, plastic, acrylic, etc. These inks will stain your stamps, and they require a solvent- based cleaner to remove most of the ink from the stamp.
PIGMENT INKS
Pigment inks, while water-based, also include a glycerin-like binder that makes them a slow-drying ink, so they are ideal for embossing. Because of the binder, however, they are not suited for use on - and will not dry on - coated papers Pigment inks are archival and will not fade with time, so they are perfect for use in scrapbooking. And, because of the sponge-like pad, they are great to use for the “direct-to-paper” method.A number of improved pigment inks are faster-drying than the "older" brands because of their chemical make-up. Thus, some of these inks will dry on coated papers (glossy paper and translucent vellums) and some non-porous surfaces, especially if heat-set. And, because they dry quickly, if you want to use them when embossing, you need to apply the embossing powder quickly or it won't stick.In addition to regular pigment inks, there is a sub-set of pigment ink that that you can use on fabric, wood, shrink plastic because when they are heat-set, they become permanent.
CHALK INKS
Chalk inks give a flat, muted appearance to the stamped image, thus the "chalk" ink description. Visible on the stamp pad surface and in the reinkers is a white, "chalky" residue. Chalk inks combine the best qualities of both pigment and dye inks. Chalk inks have the opacity of pigment inks. You can stamp them on almost any color cardstock, and your image will be visible. Like pigment inks, they resist fading (even if air-dried) and are archival. Like dye inks, chalk inks stamp and blend well. They dry quickly on most surfaces, including coated papers. If heat-set, chalk inks are permanent and resist smearing.
You can emboss chalk inks. However, because they dry quickly, you need to apply the embossing powder quickly. Please remember, though, that embossing will ruin the chalky effect of the ink.
A WORD ABOUT THE PADS THEMSELVES
You'll notice that some ink pads are made of a foam, while others are made of felt. The foam pads hold more ink and tend to put more ink on the stamps, while the felt pads distribute the ink a little more evenly. For the most part, dye inks come with felt pads, while pigment inks come with foam pads. The most logical reason behind this is that the pigment inks are heavier because of the binder in them, and the foam allows better inking.
However, there are a few exceptions to this generalization. Ranger's Antiquities and Resist inks (both considered more pigment ink) both come on felt pads. Because of this, the images stamped with either of these inks are a little more crisp and clean than those of competing brands. On the flip side, these two do not work as well for embossing since the amount of ink distributed is less. Clearsnap, which manufactures Vivid, Fluid Chalk Inks, Colorbox, and others, puts all of its inks on foam pads. Because of this, some of the images stamped with their pads may not, at first stamping, be as crisp as those of other brands.
ONE LITTLE HINT
If you have trouble remembering which inks are pigment and which are dye, looking at the pad container itself can sometimes help. For the most part, pigment inks come in pads with CLEAR or TRANSLUCENT tops, while dye inks come with OPAQUE tops. Of course, there are always exceptions, so check out the description first if you are looking for a particular ink type.
RESIST INKS
As their name implies, the purpose of these inks is to resist something. When stamped on glossy or any other coated paper, the resist inks prevent dye inks from bonding to the paper over the stamped image. Most resist inks are clear, so when you stamp on the coated cardstock (usually white or off-white) with these inks and then either bray, sponge, stipple, etc. dye inks over the stamped image, the stamped image stays the paper color.In addition to being resist inks, these pads are have other uses. Versamark(Tsukineko) and Palette Watermark (Stewart Superior) inks are both a little "juicier" than the Ranger Resist/Perfect Medium pads, most likely due to the fact that they have foam pads while the Ranger pads are felt.
Because they put more ink on your stamps, Versamark and Palette also make great, clear embossing inks. While you can emboss with the Ranger pads, they don't work as well as the other two.
Versamark and Palette also work well as watermark pads on many papers. To achieve a watermark look, stamp with either ink on almost any uncoated cardstock and let the ink dry. You'll notice a tone-on-tone look where you stamped.
Finally, all three inks work great in binding chalks (dry chalks, not chalk inks), mica powders (Pearl Ex, Perfect Pearls, etc), etc, to coated papers. Simply stamp using one of the resist inks on coated paper and brush or sponge chalk or one of the powders over the top. The powder will stick to the stamped image.Please note that when you use any of these inks on your stamps, you need to clean the stamp IMMEDIATELY after use. And, we recommend using a good stamp cleaner to remove these inks. Failure to do so can ruin your stamp.
Saturday, March 31, 2007
Polymer Stamp Primer
Over the past year or so, polymer stamps, or clear stamps as most people call them, have become very popular. They have been around for quite some time, and there are differences between polymer stamps and rubber stamps in how they're made, how they stamp, and how you care for them. Many stampers and scrapbookers are hesitant to use polymer stamps because they are unsure of how to care for and/or use them.
CARE OF POLYMER STAMPS
Other than knowing that clear stamps are made from polymer rather than rubber, it's not really necessary to know the manufacturing process of these stamps. However, because they are polymer, you need to care for them differently. Any light, real or artificial, will cause them to yellow. That doesn't mean the stamps are ruined. (Consider the fact that varnish and other finishes also yellow when exposed to light.) The stamps will still work the same. However, if you leave them exposed to harsh light for long periods of time, even the supposed non-yellowing polymer stamps will yellow a bit and, eventually, harden.
When cleaning your stamps, you want to use either soap and water, baby wipes, or cleaners made specifically for polymer stamps. Do NOT, under any circumstances, use a solvent-based cleaner on these stamps as you will ruin them. In addition, using solvent-based inks, such as Staz-On, can also damage clear stamps.
Finally, because you store the stamps on acetate sheets and attach them to acrylic blocks for stamping, you need to be careful in detaching them from either surface. If you pull too hard, you can rip the stamps. And, because you handle them each time you move them from one place to another, they may lose their ability to stick to either the sheets or blocks. To fix that, simply "wash" the stamp with a mild soap and cool water and let it dry to restore the tack.
USING POLYMER STAMPS
Polymer stamps work the same way rubber stamps do in that you ink them and stamp. Most people will probably not be able to tell the difference between an image stamped with a clear, polymer stamp and a rubber stamp unless there is a lot of detail in the image because of how they are manufactured.However, because ink tends to bead up on the polymer more than it would on rubber, you should condition polymer stamps before using them. While some people use a fine-grit sandpaper to "scuff" the surface of the stamps, you need to be careful that you do not scratch the surface too much.
A much easier and safer method is to rub a pink eraser over the stamp's surface. Both of these methods scuff the surface enough so that it holds the ink much better. Because polymer stamps do not have cushion, many stampers have a difficult time getting the entire image to stamp, especially with the larger stamps. To remedy this problem, you need to put a cushion under the paper you're stamping. Mouse pads and Fun Foam work great!
OTHER PROs and CONs
Buying polymer stamps is beneficial for a number of reasons: You get many more stamps in a set for a lower price (Most sets today run in the neighborhood of $15-20.). Because the stamps cling to acetate sheets, storage is minimal, and you can easily see which stamps are on each sheet. And, because they are completely clear, you can easily place them on cards or scrapbook layouts. As noted, the detail in polymer stamps is not as good as the detail in rubber stamps. In addition to that and the other negative points noted above, some polymer stamps have an odor that rubber stamps do not have. The smell can, at times, be overpowering.
CARE OF POLYMER STAMPS
Other than knowing that clear stamps are made from polymer rather than rubber, it's not really necessary to know the manufacturing process of these stamps. However, because they are polymer, you need to care for them differently. Any light, real or artificial, will cause them to yellow. That doesn't mean the stamps are ruined. (Consider the fact that varnish and other finishes also yellow when exposed to light.) The stamps will still work the same. However, if you leave them exposed to harsh light for long periods of time, even the supposed non-yellowing polymer stamps will yellow a bit and, eventually, harden.
When cleaning your stamps, you want to use either soap and water, baby wipes, or cleaners made specifically for polymer stamps. Do NOT, under any circumstances, use a solvent-based cleaner on these stamps as you will ruin them. In addition, using solvent-based inks, such as Staz-On, can also damage clear stamps.
Finally, because you store the stamps on acetate sheets and attach them to acrylic blocks for stamping, you need to be careful in detaching them from either surface. If you pull too hard, you can rip the stamps. And, because you handle them each time you move them from one place to another, they may lose their ability to stick to either the sheets or blocks. To fix that, simply "wash" the stamp with a mild soap and cool water and let it dry to restore the tack.
USING POLYMER STAMPS
Polymer stamps work the same way rubber stamps do in that you ink them and stamp. Most people will probably not be able to tell the difference between an image stamped with a clear, polymer stamp and a rubber stamp unless there is a lot of detail in the image because of how they are manufactured.However, because ink tends to bead up on the polymer more than it would on rubber, you should condition polymer stamps before using them. While some people use a fine-grit sandpaper to "scuff" the surface of the stamps, you need to be careful that you do not scratch the surface too much.
A much easier and safer method is to rub a pink eraser over the stamp's surface. Both of these methods scuff the surface enough so that it holds the ink much better. Because polymer stamps do not have cushion, many stampers have a difficult time getting the entire image to stamp, especially with the larger stamps. To remedy this problem, you need to put a cushion under the paper you're stamping. Mouse pads and Fun Foam work great!
OTHER PROs and CONs
Buying polymer stamps is beneficial for a number of reasons: You get many more stamps in a set for a lower price (Most sets today run in the neighborhood of $15-20.). Because the stamps cling to acetate sheets, storage is minimal, and you can easily see which stamps are on each sheet. And, because they are completely clear, you can easily place them on cards or scrapbook layouts. As noted, the detail in polymer stamps is not as good as the detail in rubber stamps. In addition to that and the other negative points noted above, some polymer stamps have an odor that rubber stamps do not have. The smell can, at times, be overpowering.
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